One of my favorite reads early this fall was Peter Hessler's "Dr. Don: The life of a small-town druggist" in The New Yorker. I posted a link on Facebook but didn't mention anything here. Then I kept talking about the story to people, and they kept talking to me about it. So, a post.
Hessler sneaked up on me. I had always enjoyed his long reads in the magazine, but I hadn't connected them or realized his body of writing. Then he won a MacArthur genius grant, and a new friend at the ONA conference got to talking about him when we all went out for dinner.
Last, this "Dr. Don" article arrived in an issue and became a rare free read on the New Yorker site. (It's possible I don't have the chronology exactly right here, but you can sense the chain of events.) I was sold.
My favorite passage at first was an early sequence when the druggist effortlessly greets, counsels and treats his customers, all of whom he knows by name. But friend Becky pointed to this one, a small interlude that took on greater meaning and power as you looked back on it.
Jenks grew up in Salt Lake City, but he has spent most of his working life in small towns. “Maybe I can describe it this way,” he says. “I like to play chess. I moved to a small town, and nobody played chess there, but one guy challenged me to checkers. I always thought it was kind of a simple game, but I accepted. And he beat me nine or ten games in a row. That’s sort of like living in a small town. It’s a simpler game, but it’s played to a higher level.” Jenks says that he is forced to have “a working relationship” with local methamphetamine users, treating their ailments in confidence. He explains that small towns might have a reputation for being closed-minded, but actually residents often learn to be nonjudgmental, because contact is so intense. “Someday I might be on the side of the road, and the person who pulls me out is going to be a meth user,” Jenks says. “The circle is much tighter.” He believes there is less gossip than one would assume, simply because so much is already known.
I'm currently torn between that one and what follows here, the story's opening paragraph. It is just about perfect, and it hooks you deeply.
In the southwestern corner of Colorado, where the Uncompahgre Plateau descends through spruce forest and scrubland toward the Utah border, there is a region of more than four thousand square miles which has no hospitals, no department stores, and only one pharmacy. The pharmacist is Don Colcord, who lives in the town of Nucla. More than a century ago, Nucla was founded by idealists who hoped their community would become the “center of Socialistic government for the world.” But these days it feels like the edge of the earth. Highway 97 dead-ends at the top of Main Street; the population is around seven hundred and falling. The nearest traffic light is an hour and a half away. When old ranching couples drive their pickups into Nucla, the wives leave the passenger’s side empty and sit in the middle of the front seat, close enough to touch their husbands. It’s as if something about the landscape — those endless hills, that vacant sky — makes a person appreciate the intimacy of a Ford F-150 cab.
Go read the rest of the story.